cockring - tak czy nie i dlaczego?

[Jans✩ 5 320]

Sem, dnia 29 Sierpnia 2015 - 13:03, napisał(a):

Stag, Prawdziwy z Ciebie techno- innovator Oby jak najwięcej takich nowinek.

 

Ojej, teraz mam presję - myślę iż każdy z pokolenia pamiętającego A.Słodowego potrafi wpaść na pomysł dopasowania pozornie niepasujących do siebie rzeczy. Tak na przekór etykietom..

 

 

No jak tam z Twoja PRESJA ? Urodziles cos ?

 

To ja w tym czasie przesylam cos ze " Slodowego dla seks majsterkowiczow " w wersji BDSM .

Jak sie spodoba ten wlasnej roboty Sling to przesle nastepne projekty dla pilnych Rogaczy.

Zycze dokladnosci w wykonaniu !

 

Hanging Sling

This hanging leather sling is great fun! It's super for a little sex with your passive other, the safest form of suspension, and holds someone in the perfect relaxed position for fisting. The webbed design presented here, inspired by a similar item from Mr. S. Leathers in San Francisco, uses less leather and conforms better to different body shapes than a solid version.

Strength is important for safety, so please use quality leather and plenty of key posts in strategic locations. Each D-ring is secured with about 3 inches width of leather as designed, which is quite sufficient for ever weighty individuals.

You should use this sling suspended from a four-point support frame, about 4' x 4', constructed or either hardwood or steel pipe. My homepage has some description of my pipe frame, and Screw the Roses, Send Me the Thorns (Miller and Devon) describes the construction of a hardwood frame. Finally, please use heavy chain and big quick links.

A rather large side of latigo leather is required to complete the sling, and you should expect to use about half of it. The determining factor: the ability to cut one very good strap, 73" long and 3.5" wide.

Before you start, take a close look at both Diagram 1 and the pictures of the finished product. You should be familiar with the design before you cut piece one!

Difficulty: Hard Tools

Utility Knife, Edge Beveler #2, Punch, Strap-Cutter, Rivet Setter

Parts Checklist

1.5" D-rings (4)

Medium and Long Rivets (a whole bunch)

¼" and 3/8" Key Posts (another whole bunch)

Leather Checklist

See Step 2 for List

Steps 1 - Create Templates

The first thing you should do is create three templates.. one for the ends of the bottom strap, one for the five-hole pattern used throughout, and a third for the six-hole pattern on the base strap.

The first should follow the picture in the upper-left corner of Diagram 1, and be created on a 3.5" wide piece of scrap. Test this template around a D-ring to ensure that the holes will line up. The shorter tongue goes through the ring first and the longer goes through over it from the other side.

To make the second template, use a piece of 2.5" wide piece for scrap more than 3" long. Use a utility knife to lightly mark a 2.5" box square to the length of the strap. Next, mark from corner to corner both ways, forming an X in the box. Measure in .75" from each corner and mark on the line. Punch the five holes indicated. You will punch almost all of the holes in this project through this template, so get it right! It looks like this:

The third template is best made from a scrap cut to exactly 2.5" x 3.5". Score lines .5" in from each long side, .75" in from each short side, and 1.75" in from a short side. Punch the six holes where these lines intersect. It looks like this:

Note that at each end of the base cover strap, you will be using only one side (three holes) of this template.

2 - Cut Leather

A large number of straps must be cut to complete this design, and if you don't have a strap-cutter, give up! The following straps are required:

Name

Number

Length

Width

Base Strap

1

73"

3.5"

Side Strap

2

66"

2.5"

Cross Strap

4

22"

2.5"

Base Cover Strap

1

20"

3.5"

Center Strap

1

28.5"

2.5"

Short Vertical Strap

2

10.5"

2.5"

Top Ring Cover Strap

2

8"

2.5"

Before cutting anything, examine Diagram 1 and make sure you understand the placement of each of these straps. Most of the information in this plan is crammed into that diagram, so become one with it!

You'll note that the lengths for the cross strap, are not actually 22".. from top to bottom they get shorter as the side straps get closer together. I suggest you start with all four cross straps plenty long (22") and cut to final size by laying your work out on the floor. You can hold the straps in the right place by punching the holes first and sticking a long rivet through them (temporarily!). Please cut all straps to final length and punch all holes before securing straps to each other permanently.

3 - Base Strap Ends

Use the first template described above to finish both ends of the base strap. You should mirror the ends (i.e.: long tongue on top at each end), although this is just aesthetic.

4 - Punch Holes

This is a big step. You are about the punch over 200 holes. There is a logical order to this:

Punch the six-hole pattern in the center of the base strap, the center of the base cover strap, and in one end of the center strap.

Punch the five-hole pattern in three places up the center strap, and in the center of three cross straps.

Punch the five hole pattern twice in equidistant, near-center positions on one of the cross straps you just punched.

Punch the five-hole pattern in these same two locations in the remaining untouched cross strap.

Punch the five-hole pattern in both ends of both short vertical straps.

Punch half of the six-hole pattern .5" from both ends of the base cover strap.

Punch half of the six-hole pattern in these same locations on the base strap.

Things are starting to take shape. Next, lay out all punched pieces in the proper pattern on the floor. Hold them in place with long rivets pushed through the holes. Make sure all of these pieces lay square to each other. It should look something like this:

Now, carefully lay the side straps in position. The bottom of each should be 8" from the center of the base strap, aligned to the bottom on the inside corner. The side straps should run slightly out from center, and past the end of the topmost cross strap at the end of top corner. Make sure both side straps are properly positioned and perfectly flat and straight.

Use a utility knife to lightly score a diagonal line in both ends of each cross strap where it sticks out from under the side strap. Also, lightly mark the location of the bottom of each cross strap on the side strap.. this will allow you to position the holes that we'll punch next.

Next, score a diagonal line on the bottom of each side strap where it hangs over the bottom of the base strap. Also score marks on the bottom of both base strap and base cover strap indicating the outside of each side strap (which should be 8" from center).

Finally, fold the far end of each side strap just over the bottom of the top cross strap, and mark this line as well.

Time to punch some more holes. Note that the five hole pattern should always end up perpendicular to the base strap, not at an angle to it. This means it will be at a slight angle on the side straps.

Punch the five-hole pattern into both ends of each cross strap. Line the bottom, outside corner of the pattern (the 2.5" box) up with the bottom outside corner of the cross strap, as indicated by the diagonal mark. Here's a picture:

Next, punch four sets of the five-hole pattern in each side strap, lined up in the same manner to the score lines indicating the positions of the cross straps.

Punch the five-hole pattern in the end of each side strap. This time, line up the bottom of the template with the line you marked earlier.

Punch the six-hole pattern in the proper locations (as marked earlier) of both base and base cover straps.

Punch the six-hole pattern in the bottom of both side straps.

5 - Side Strap D-rings

Follow the patterns in the upper-right corner of Diagram 1 to 1) shape the top ring cover straps and 2) shape the ring positions of the side straps.

The narrowed portion of the side straps should half way between the top two sets of holes in these straps, and should be about three inches long.

Punch the indicated holes in side and top ring cover straps in a three-hole pattern. You may wish the created a template for this.

6 - Cut Diagonals

You have marked a number of diagonals that need to be cut. These are 1) at both ends of each cross strap and 2) at both ends of each side strap.

7 - Finish Edges

Bevel all edges of the each strap except the top ring cover straps, which only get beveling on the top edges. You can apply Edge Coat now or after assembly.

8 - Assembly

Use rivets and key posts to assemble all of the pieces. Secure key posts with glue. All five-hole patterns should include at least one key post. The bottom-most locations across the piece should be key posts as well. Here is a logical order:

Secure all four D-rings in place using 3/8" key posts. Do not use rivets in these locations.

Secure the center strap to the three cross straps that connect to it.

Secure the short vertical straps to the two cross straps that they touch.

Secure the side straps to the top cross strap. The main length of the side strap lays over the cross strap, and the top end of the side strap lays under the cross strap.

Secure the other three cross straps to the side straps. In these locations, the cross strap should be on top of the side strap.

Secure the center and side straps to the base and base cover straps. The base strap is on the bottom, and the base cover strap is on top.

Secure both ends of the base cover strap to the base strap.

9 - Admire Your Handiwork!

Ta-da! Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a hanging sling built lovingly with your own hands.

Diagram 1 The Finished Product

 

 

Sorry , ze to nie na temat ringow ale za to na temat majsterkowiczow w BDSM poprzednio wzmiankowanych.

[stag 416]

łorety! toż to robota dla kuśnierza. Ja poszedłem w stal i tytan.. poszedłem do sklepu na razie "liżę" rany po pewnym zabiegu..  a za kilka tygodni przymierzam się do takiego rusztowania jak na zdjęciu - nie jest to również ring ale myślę iż na dłuższą metę bardziej odczuwalny . Decyzje zapadły, teraz trzeba się spróbować wywiązać z danego słowa..

[zeeloog 307]

to już level wyżej niż mój - jakiś 3 dan

 

jest jeszcze opcja doposażenia tegoz modelu w pewne akcesorium..

pierscien-na-zoladz-z-korkiem.jpg

No toż to nic innego jak modernizacja naynki .

...takiego sprzętu do narzynania stali

[michall 1]

Ja kiedyś spróbowałem takowy z durexa z małym wibratirkiem szczerze dupy nie urwalo coś tam było czuć ale jakiś specjalnych doznań nie było zarówno z mojej strony jak i żony